Nepal (Jonathan)

The essence of Nepal is its people. Generous, entrepreneurial, respectful, thoughtful and smart, dogged, creative, patient, reverent. The beauty of the Himalaya is shared by 5 countries but radiates most powerful on Nepal. I think anyway. During our 5 day Pun Hill trek the light from Dhaulagiri washed the air with sparkle and soul, purified light. We were alone on the trail with our guide and porter, trudging, sweating, farting. Me twisting my head for a possible Himal view--often rewarded with such. The trails are paved with mica sparkle. Well placed stones wide enough for 2 way traffic. I am glad there isn't. The small settlements, tea and guest houses, outhouses and stopping points flow by. Out of them pour stoic looks, used to our ilk passing, sometimes we drop a few badly needed rupees, some feces or urine, a smile, "Namaste". A begging child asks for "sweet" and eyes us with suspicion or some immature version of contempt. Water buffalo use their tenor pipes for a resinous "meeeeeew", stop when we approach but keep chewing, white cud on their lips. The reek of plentiful dung alternately pleases and nauseates me--an older local woman carries a dried, rounded, shiny example of dung. Food for her tomatoes or corn. Hefted up on her shoulder the size of a large bowling ball. It's nice dung.
The green valley is so steep but--like Ireland--plants stick and thrive at this elevation (6-10,000 feet). Terrace gardens make actual crops (as well as level shack foundations) possible and organize verdant hills into steps finely cut and sun reflecting. The scene is stunning. Clouds fog the hills and settle on riverbeds while we float over them. Every once in a while a plane flies below us. The Himalaya radiate. The trail snickers as we labor on, climbing, descending. We come for the view, the adventure and get far more--exercise! fantastic food! unexpected luxury like hot showers and sit down toilets! occasionally even electricity!
The last 4 days in Kathmandu are very hot and dry. Acme Guest House is like home to us, a little part of the city where we can be safe and sound, clean our bodies and our wounds, take our medicine, even watch a little satellite TV! The days pass, we go to Patan and Bhaktapur to shop. The sun is very hot now--it turns out the monsoon is way up in Sri Lanka, making its way south at a crawling 5 kmh. The dust rises. I find out about Dad's illness--sometimes the information Superhighway brings heavy news. Leaving Nepal is easy and difficult, the country tries to make it hate you while the love just pours out of you. I will return with some purpose, maybe a movie or a book or just the desire to climb into the death zone for a while...humans are strange
namaste Nepal (by Jonathan)