Not So Many Rats (Shannon & Jonathan)
We landed in Buenos Aires at 8 am. Everyone was ready for us, with passport stamps and luggage stream and maps, baños and bancos. This hostel was here with high ceilings and staff speaking Spanish, most of which we understand. All of the dogs are wearing coats.
There are wide streets and clean, fast subways, grills of meat meat meat and oozing tubes of dulce de leche for desert, a killer. Once you get on the dulce de leche train, you don´t know whether you´ll get off, like heroin.
This city is like Barcelona/Belfast, heavy on the Belfast. Once-gleaming colonialismo now ashen and ominous, though postwar "safe." All residences, whether art nouveau or boxy modern are covered with political graffiti and symbols of anarchy.
We were walking around here feeling like it´s kinds sorta Barcelona until the night we took in a tango show at BA´s oldest cafe. Now we know where we are: somewhere with all the melancholy of Kurt Weil plus indigenous angst and general diaplaced dignidad. Love the suits. This is the city of cute old men in neat sweater vests who remind me of my dear late Doctor Bendo. And men who get swoony verbose at the rubia on the street. The cold is making us tired but also more romantic. ¡Esto! --SR
27 Julio 2005, Buenos Aires! The steak runs like water and this place is the Niagra Falls of steak waterfalls. Tonight, La Chacra (Small Farm), just a little snack before a movie (Los 4 Fantasticos). I got the T-bone, Shannon got a sirloin--best fries EVER and a dessert that blissed me out more than any drug experience I have ever been on. Custard Cream with caramelized sugar syrup and "milk jam"...OUTRAGEOUS. Not too sweet either.
Buenos Aires is about as homey, accessible and well laid out as a city can be. Avenida Corrientes is a kind of Times Square/Broadway with shows and opera and gallerias. Argentines love to shop and they were doing it today. Saw a good representation of Andy Warhol´s lifeworks at an Art Gallery/Mall. A balanced show with some sketchy execution...beautiful video of his life and times as well. All in a wierd setting in the Borges Cultural Center, Top floor of the Galleria Pacificos--hard to find because of its location in a mall, great place though and very accessible to locals and kids. We could see the kids checking out Andy Warhol, and a Picasso show was right next door. Very cool place for a gallery of significant artists. (jonathan)
There are wide streets and clean, fast subways, grills of meat meat meat and oozing tubes of dulce de leche for desert, a killer. Once you get on the dulce de leche train, you don´t know whether you´ll get off, like heroin.
This city is like Barcelona/Belfast, heavy on the Belfast. Once-gleaming colonialismo now ashen and ominous, though postwar "safe." All residences, whether art nouveau or boxy modern are covered with political graffiti and symbols of anarchy.
We were walking around here feeling like it´s kinds sorta Barcelona until the night we took in a tango show at BA´s oldest cafe. Now we know where we are: somewhere with all the melancholy of Kurt Weil plus indigenous angst and general diaplaced dignidad. Love the suits. This is the city of cute old men in neat sweater vests who remind me of my dear late Doctor Bendo. And men who get swoony verbose at the rubia on the street. The cold is making us tired but also more romantic. ¡Esto! --SR
27 Julio 2005, Buenos Aires! The steak runs like water and this place is the Niagra Falls of steak waterfalls. Tonight, La Chacra (Small Farm), just a little snack before a movie (Los 4 Fantasticos). I got the T-bone, Shannon got a sirloin--best fries EVER and a dessert that blissed me out more than any drug experience I have ever been on. Custard Cream with caramelized sugar syrup and "milk jam"...OUTRAGEOUS. Not too sweet either.
Buenos Aires is about as homey, accessible and well laid out as a city can be. Avenida Corrientes is a kind of Times Square/Broadway with shows and opera and gallerias. Argentines love to shop and they were doing it today. Saw a good representation of Andy Warhol´s lifeworks at an Art Gallery/Mall. A balanced show with some sketchy execution...beautiful video of his life and times as well. All in a wierd setting in the Borges Cultural Center, Top floor of the Galleria Pacificos--hard to find because of its location in a mall, great place though and very accessible to locals and kids. We could see the kids checking out Andy Warhol, and a Picasso show was right next door. Very cool place for a gallery of significant artists. (jonathan)
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