a different world *Shannon*

We´re in Barcelona, and suddenly there´s sun! And real coffee. Don´t get me wrong, I loved Ireland. There´s something about realizing how easy it is to move among people who are by nature unconfrontational, and what it must take to push them to another level, historically. Not that anyone discussed politics with us. The hostess at the Dublin B&B kept repeating: "We won´t talk about the war!" Ah, but which one?

Older people told us stories, like the lacemaker on Inis Mor, whose husband carves stone. We were biking around the island on a super windy day, looking at ceremonial sites and monk´s stone beehive houses from the 5th century. She said don´t believe the tour guides who tell you the forts were built by the Romans. It was the Celts, who wore horns on their heads and fought off the Vikings. The women were warriors too. Yet that monk´s hut was the most peaceful place I´ve ever been in my life. I could have stayed there and watched the grass blow for ages. Inis Mor is seductive that way.

Best Castle: Auginaure. Okay, it was the only one we saw, but it was unexpectedly erotic. It was built in the 1500s by the fighting O´Flahertys. It has a river moat, deep and brown water flowing around crenelated stone walls Inside is a wonderfully bumpy lawn with trees and handsome rock outcroppings. The tower itself in 6 stories high of smooth grey stone with slit windows. Inside narrow whitewashed stairways wind up and lead to secret rooms and three great rooms with marble fireplaces. All these wide windowseats led to tiny openings where you could shoot someone or hurl at them through a murder hole. We wanted to put our mango in every shot but we had forgotten the camera and eaten the mango.